NZ environment authority proposes to remove 'forever chemicals' in cosmetics

Wellington, March 10

New Zealand's Environmental Protection Authority (EPA) has proposed to phase out perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), sometimes known as "forever chemicals" in cosmetic products.

The authority is seeking feedback on its proposed changes to the Cosmetics Products Group Standards, which contain rules around ingredients and labelling, reports Xinhua news agency.

The EPA proposes that New Zealand should align its rules for ingredients with the European Union (EU), and remove PFAS as components in cosmetics by the end of 2025.

Other proposed updates include updating requirements for fragrances.

"PFAS in cosmetics are under scrutiny across Europe and the US, but they have not been banned (yet). The EU is currently discussing a complete ban of PFAS, not only for cosmetics but also for all other non-essential uses (from non-stick pans to waterproof jackets)," Melanie Kah, associate professor of the School of Environment at University of Auckland, said on Friday.

PFAS are found in about 50 per cent of cosmetics, mainly mascara, foundation and lipstick, to improve product durability and texture.

There are established links between PFAS and human health issues, but exposure via use of cosmetics is likely to be low compared to other sources, such as water, food and inhalation, Kah said.

Sally Gaw, director of Environmental Science, School of Physical and Chemical Sciences at University of Canterbury, said the move will have significant benefits for the health of people who wear cosmetics and wider environmental benefits.

"This measure will also be protective of children as chemicals from cosmetics have been measured in amniotic fluid indicating that babies can be exposed in the womb with potential impacts on their development and lifelong health," Gaw said.

As these types of products also enter waste streams including rubbish and wastewater, cosmetic ingredients can be released into the environment, she said, adding extending the list of banned ingredients in cosmetics to align with the EU will also prevent New Zealand from becoming "a dumping ground for products that are considered unacceptable in other countries".